Molly Shane, IEM ’18

Cuba J-Term Practicum

The cool relief of the shade washed over me as I stepped beneath the leafy green canopy of the small city park. Settling myself on an empty park bench, I took a deep breath as the weekday hustle and bustle continued to swirl around me, hot, raucous, and chaotic. Motorcycles sputtered and spit fumes as they wove patterns up and down the narrow streets. Shopping bags rustled, t-shirts broadcast their strange English catchphrases as their wearers passed by, and just beyond me, where the tidy greenery gave way to a cluster of cafe tables, the rum and Bucanero beer flowed freely. This is Santiago de Cuba, a city as frenetic and brimming with commerce as any American metropolis. The streets are narrower, the buildings show signs of their age, and Fidel’s familiar face peers out from banners and pictures on nearly every block. Yet, these differences are subtle, not the glaring foreignness Americans have come to expect from our forbidden neighbor.

For many years now, Cuba has captivated my attention and imagination. As an American, the idea of free healthcare, a top-notch education system, and powerful social cohesion inspired both admiration and jealousy. As a passionate environmentalist, I deeply admired Fidel’s commitment to conservation, both terrestrial and marine, and the forward-thinking approach the government takes towards natural resource management. These are things I wish my own country could promise, but a four-year election cycle, partisan divisions, and the suffocating presence of money in politics make these ambitious projects seem close to impossible.

Of course, the most wonderful result of traveling to Cuba is that all assumptions and perceptions, about both Cuba and your home country, will quickly be turned on their heads. I thought Cuban society was largely devoid of a culture of commerce, consumerism, and consumption. The bustling streets and well-stocked storefronts of Santiago quickly proved me wrong. I thought racism, sexism, and discrimination had, more or less, been wiped clean from Cuban society. The outspoken LGBTQ activists of Las Isabelitas set me straight. I thought the government was unified around their commitment to environmental protection and sustainable development, but the looming presence of cruise ships in the ports and proposals for coastal golf courses suggest otherwise. No social project is simple and straightforward and time spent in Cuba reminds you to turn a critical eye on everything you think you know. I returned from Cuba with a fresh perspective, an appreciation of difference, and a sense of awe at the accomplishments of a few visionary individuals.

“Endless gratitude to our exceptional guide, Cal (center), for making our time in Cuba so rich and educational!”

Click here to  see Molly’s blog, “Destination Unknown: The Future of Tourism in Cuba.”

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