What’s Your Motivation?

The Maoist leaders were able to motivate the “peasants” to join the revolution (and the PLA) to fight for ideological goals which could then lead to changes for improving lives. However, in 2006 the Maoist leadership decided to team up with the democratic parties to abolish the monarchy. Was this a betrayal of the “revolution?” Their actions might be understood by the answers to these few questions:

1)      Did the Maoists ideas of Communism change and they felt democracy was a better system, or is it just a better system at this time to get power, influence and money?

2)      Is asking for democratic peace just a chance for the Maoist leaders to rest in order to get enough resources to finish the revolution at a later date?

3)      Were the Party and PLA out of steam and the Maoist leaders just wanted to solidify their gains?

4)      Did the Maoists sell out their fighters for power, agreeing to elections and the subsequent money that come with it, all while the cadres sit idly (without weapons) in camps for years?

5)      Was the movement really a Maoist/Communist revolution?

The Maoists used “revolutionary” slogans (“Power comes from the barrel of a gun”) and techniques (surrounding the cities by recruiting the peasant masses), but I don’t know if I could call it a revolution. Nowhere in their demands do they talk of class and the oppression of the bourgeoisie. They seemed to want an isolationist, anti-globalization Nepal with strong national identity while still asking for greater control of regional areas by various ethnic groups. Revolution? At the end of the war, the country went from a partial democracy to a full democracy with one extra political party. As always, I now have more questions than when our class went to Nepal.

Maoist Report Card

During our last dinner in Kathmandu, one of our guests commented that the Maoists (presently in power) are learning that it’s a lot harder to lead the country than to lead a rebellion. I decided to look up their original 40-point demand given in 1996 and compare it to what they have accomplished since winning elections in 2008.

The first nine demands are “Concerning Nationality.” The Maoists wanted to abrogate unfair treaties, and “vulgar Hindi films, videos and magazines should be immediately outlawed.” We saw many ads for Hindi / Bollywood movies while traveling through the country so the government has fallen behind on that front. Demand #6 wants stoppage of “foreign capital in Nepali industries, business and finance.” During our time in Nepal we saw a trade treaty with India approved and the Maoists were open to receiving development aid from a visiting Chinese official. It looks like the Maoists have changed their mind now that some of that money could be funneled into political coffers. For me, the interesting part of these first demands concerning nationality is that they don’t address what is Nepali nationality or have any suggestions on how to bring about a common identity.

The second section of demands is “Concerning People’s Democracy.” This is where the Maoists did get some goals achieved: abolishing the monarchy, having representatives elected for a people’s democratic system,  and the army, police and bureaucracy come under the people’s control (although I would argue they’re really under the control of political elites). Demand #17 mentions murderers being brought to justice, but it doesn’t mention which side the murderers came from. It’s interesting that some Maoist leaders are considering amnesty for some extra-judicial murders in light of this demand. Some other points in this section involve ending racial and gender discrimination. We met several organizations, like the Women’s Dalit group in Nepalgunj, that say there has been progress in these matters.

The third section concerns “Livelihood.” The Maoists demand free education, clean water, cheap fertilizer and seeds, guaranteed employment, and chocolate waterfalls from money mountains. It’s basically a wish list, but like the other demands it doesn’t mention how these demands or goals are to be met. Overall the Maoists did have some noble and respectable goals but now that they’re in power they are seeing how difficult it is to make them come true. Or did they think they would never be in power and just wanted these excuses to wage armed struggle? All I know is that I would give them a B- if I was to grade their performance in respecting and implementing their own demands.

It’s Gonna Be a Bumpy Ride

Our research team relied heavily upon bus transportation during our travels throughout Nepal. From Birgunj to Pokhara, Lumbini to Rolpa and then terminating in Nepalganj, we laughed, loved, and generally experienced the gamut of human emotions while riding in the beloved Nike swoosh bus driven by our three-man crew.

The guy on the left has been nicknamed Georgie Porgie by Jasmine, seeing as he “looks like he would kiss all the girls and make them cry.” The man in the middle wearing the leather jacket was the quiet one, always watching the road and contemplating what life choices got him to the point of chauffeuring fourteen foreigners around seldom-visited districts. I call the third man “the Newcomer” since he joined us after Pokhara. His favorite color is green. Even though I never knew their real names, I must say if it wasn’t for their skill and professionalism you would not be reading this blog post as I would be deceased and therefore have limited access to the internet.

Ah yes, the bus rides. I shant forget the nine-hour bitterly cold ride to Nepalganj. As there was no heat, I was forced to accost my seatmate Sasha for whatever body warmth we could muster. As my stomach settled from my masala chip dinner and my toes began to lose all feeling, I couldn’t help but realize that it was still better than our ride to Rolpa. The town of Livang (Ropa’s district headquarters) sits in part of a valley that can only be accessed by one mountain road. The last 8 kilometers was the most frightening riding experience I’ve ever had. The road had continuous hairpin curves as we came down the mountain. The bus was too big so the leather jacket driver had to do 3-point maneuvers to keep us from going over the steep cliff. At one point he got almost to the edge before backing up and the bus was perched downhill on a steep grade. Our translator Prateek was sitting in the front, but he got up and faced us because he couldn’t handle the view. I recited a Buddhist mantra and nervously handled the prayer beads I bought in Lumbini while several members of our team were in the back possibly crying and/or soiling themselves. The smell of overheated brakes filled our nostrils and we waited. I could only hope our driver was skilled enough to make sure the reverse gear would catch before we plummeted. My stomach was in knots as he put the bus in gear and looked back. His nimble feet gracefully coordinated the transitions between brake, clutch and gas as we retreated from cliff and completed the turn. We were on our merry way. I looked into his large mirror and saw his smile, a grin that said “silly foreigners, Trix are for kids.”  After this bonding moment, I trusted him completely. We had another driver for traveling to Dolakha whose modus operandi, in the words of R.J., was “to barrel down the narrow mountain road as fast as he could, slam on the brakes when another car approached, squeeze past the other vehicle and then return to speeding.” The whole time I bumped up and down in my dusty seat and reminisced about our leather jacket driver who knew how to use his horn and kindly handled the pot-holed roads with care so my tailbone would not become bruised. Yes, I missed our old crew and knew they would be a large part of my Nepal memories. I can still hear Georgie Porgie drumming patterns on the chassis and yelling “kah-toe, kah-toe” to help the bus fit into tight places. The Newcomer would jump out of the moving bus to ask random stranger directions so we could get to our appointments on time. The leather jacket driver had a ponytail that was just too cool for school. Our crew really helped us have an interesting and safe learning experience in Nepal. The long bus rides allowed us to see the country and its peoples up close instead of just flying over patches of brown and green. We could use the time to talk, debrief, sleep, plan, and get to know each other better. I think taking the bus was the right decision but if I had to do it over again I would pack an extra cushion, blindfold and a hot water bottle.

Limbo

Our professor, Dr. Iyer, had us think about how this J-term course in Nepal would be different than other peace building expeditions to Cambodia and Sierra Leone. Nepal is unique for several reasons, some being that parties freely admit some of the conditions for starting the conflict are still present, there was no clear winner, and the end of the war is still too near for anyone to get an historical perspective. For me, the interesting contrast is Nepal is in a transitional phase, with both parties involved in power-sharing.

Just yesterday some of us were discussing how the Pope had recently determined that limbo no longer exists for un-baptized babies, but yet the idea of limbo had been for most in the minds of distraught Catholic parents for over two millennia. I think Nepal is caught in a type of transitional limbo. The word itself brings about a neutral, almost bored connotation today but in Nepal it’s something more depressing. I’ve been quick to judge Nepali citizens for not taking action to rebuild their communities but why would they in such undetermined circumstances? No one can forecast what will happen in the next few months, let alone years. What farmer will start agriculture reform when the Maoists propose dramatic land redistribution? Why expand a business when there’s no government plans to upgrade roads or infrastructure that will help trade routes? It takes a lot of faith and bravery to begin peace building when you don’t know what conditions will arise tomorrow. We were fortunate to meet several human rights defenders and organizers who continue their work documenting and recording abuses even as some politicians throw around the idea of blanket amnesty. Their dedication to the ideals of truth and justice are truly inspirational. Now I’m curious as to what the proper amount of time for transition/interim governments should be in post-war countries. Too long and uncertainty, pleas for impunity rise; too short and the chance for a well though-out, stable transformation could be squandered.

Misplaced Passions

I sat in Hotel Annapurna waiting for my ride to the airport. A middle-aged man walked into the lobby center and lit candles around a replica temple. I closed my eyes to better appreciate the burning incense. The smell reminded me of our visit to the Hindu holy site of Manakamana Temple. The sound of a horn brought my attention back to the man. He was playing some type of instrument for his Buddhist ritual. Clearly religion is an important social factor in Nepali life.

Religion has been used as a fuel for conflict in many countries, most recently Nigeria among others. This is not the case in Nepal, where Hindus, Buddhists and Muslims have generally been able to coexist peacefully. Of course the caste system has been an inhibiting factor in creating new relationships between the Nepalese after the “People’s War” but in general religion did not exacerbate the fighting. Now that a peace agreement has been signed I assumed religious leaders would band together to remind everyone of shared values and norms that promote peace but I didn’t see that either. Even though religion was always present during my visit to Nepal, I must admit I found it’s expression subdued. Passion for politics and the search for new ethnic identities seems to trump religious fervor. One of the reasons we heard for the war was frustration towards the monarchy and government for not listening to or respecting various peoples/regions and this frustration led to aggression. After the war it seems that passion to overthrow the monarchy has been channeled into the fractious political parties. In both religious and ideological wars, passion can create the conditions for great frustration when things don’t go your way. Now I wonder how workers on the ground can direct those passions into a constructive force for peacebuilding that will limit frustration instead of adding to it.

Chuckles

A sense of humor can really help a difficult situation become more manageable. I find it most fortunate that everyone in our group has a playful and robust capability for creating mirth. We are able to entertain ourselves and this keeps spirits up. Some listen to sound clips from the late great comedian Mitch Hedberg, others do funny dances (at least I hope it was an attempt at humor), and some even come to dinner without their pants. One member in particular, let’s call him Joe, has given us hours of entertainment with his side-splitting yet provocative jokes. An example: What did the rice say to the lentils? Could you be a daal and give me some spice. I’ll pause while you continue to laugh.

Humor can help diffuse tensions and help people come together. I don’t know enough about Nepali language and culture to know their style of humor but I have enjoyed seeing big smiles when people have warmed up to us. War and violence is nothing to laugh about, but going forward in the peace process I hope the Nepali people will be able to laugh and heal together.

Existential Crisis

Usually when someone mentions a country going through an existential crisis it means another country is threatening to destroy the first one. “Peace-loving Nepal” doesn’t have this type of existential crisis but does have one in the Western philosophical sense. Like a hero from a Camus novel, a Nepali citizen has the terrifying freedom and responsibility of forming the direction Nepal will travel without the shackles, or stability, of the monarchy. Existentialists tell us that words are not enough and that living means making decisions and acting on them. The government of Nepal can make many promises and write beautiful, comprehensively inclusive laws but if they aren’t implemented, all that work becomes futile. I believe it is imperative for Nepali citizens to act locally for putting development work into action instead of waiting for the government or international organizations to do it for them.

Luckily we have met a few heroes who are doing just that. In Pokhara we met with the Three Sisters Trekking Company, which brought economic activity for women and Nepal’s push for tourism together into a profitable business. In Bara we met the secretary of the New Young Star Club who helped a community build a clean water source that all castes will have to use and maintain together. We had the pleasure of meeting a human rights activist in Rolpa who braved beatings and death threats to put his ideas of a better Nepal into action. If many more Nepali citizens can join these role models and take positive action for their country, Nepal can emerge from this conflict better than ever.

Do You Have the Patience?

During our first day in Kathmandu we met with two volunteers of PBI (Peace Brigades International) to learn more about their organization and how they help protect people in Nepal who speak out against human rights abuses. One of the volunteers from Europe mentioned three words that continually reappear when we meet organizations every day: respect, confidence and patience.

Respect – every Nepali craves respect from others, but how is this possible with the caste system and ideological differences so prevalent? Respect for the law is sorely missing, as the interim government continues to pass laws that look great on paper but lack mechanisms for implementation and evaluation. The Nepal Army has lost trust in politicians and it’s my opinion that their respect for their agreement to the peace process is the only thing keeping them from taking control and re-instating the monarch. On the local level we have seen how the absence of respect leads to jealousy and power plays, like Dalit women being accused of witches if someone gets sick in the village.

Confidence – Who has the confidence to come forward and challenge the people and institutions that abuse their position and power? How do you build confidence in the political structure? How do you create a confident Nepali identity? A work force that believes in themselves and their abilities? These are some of the confidence problems Nepalese face.

Patience – this is the big ingredient that has held Nepal together for the past several years since the Comprehensive Peace Agreement (CPA) was signed. The Nepali people have shown incredible patience for political structures to solidify, giving enough time for more effective constitution writing. The Army has been patient with the squabbling between political parties. The Maoist fighters have stayed peacefully in the cantonments for years when it was originally agreed to be six months. At what point does patience run out? Will that lead to frustration which might be channeled into aggression? The people and government of Nepal need to find ways to enhance respect, confidence and patience.

One Man’s Story

“Change, 200 yen.”

“Thanks.” I grabbed a mint from next to the register. Good Indian food was hard to come by in Japan but this restaurant impressed. My friends weren’t finished bringing the car around so I decided to make small talk.

“Are you from India?”

“No, Nepal.” The car horn sounded and I quickly thanked the cashier before stepping out the door.

That was back in early 2007, so shortly after the monarchy relinquished control of the government to a Maoist/democracy group alliance. At the time I knew next to nothing of the news from Nepal and so the cashier didn’t make much of an impression, but now I can’t stop wondering why this Nepalese man was serving curry in Japan. The-glass-is-half-full side of my imagination likes to think he worked days at the used car import businesses down by the dock and came here at night just for supplementary income. Maybe he met a lovely Japanese woman on holiday, got married and opened the restaurant to make full use of his talents. The more realistic explanation is that he is one of the hundreds of thousands of Nepalese displaced by the civil war. Now I wonder what his story would have been. Was he a former Maoist guerrilla that wasn’t incorporated into the Army because of caste discrimination? Did he give information to the Army about Maoist activity and faced retribution once the rebel fighters came back through? A loyal Monarchist who wanted to leave Nepal now that the king was deposed? I missed my chance to ask questions and hear a story that night but now with this trip I have a chance to redeem myself by listening and learning about people’s experiences and inspirational ways they’ve made it through the war.