Rolpa

The first impressions of Rolpa arrived before we even got there: in the faces of the people when we told them we were going. A mix between shock and nervous smiles in some faces, and in others a look of pride and admiration. You see, Rolpa is the birthplace of the Maoist insurgency. It was in this small remote town located in the western Nepal where the rebels started the ‘People’s War’ in 1996.
After hours traveling through winding roads, getting stopped once and again by police checkpoints, and getting increasingly anxious just to arrive to this much-anticipated stop of our program, it was great to see Rolpa from the road (very narrow and curving roads may I add). It looked other rural villages we had visited; a town a bit more developed than expected, in the middle of an amazing landscape of mountains, greenery, and clear skies. As we started to get closer though, and as night crept in, it started to seem that the streets were considerably emptier than in other villages that we had encountered, and the police held us for a longer time than usual, and once we arrived to what seemed like a huge empty parking-lot, were directed to a narrow alley where our hotel was located. I wont elaborate much on our humble abode, but lets say it was a rather cold and long night for most of us.
The next morning we started our day bright and early – trying to have our best disposition to what Rolpa had to teach us. Since we already knew that Rolpa is highly-influenced by the Maoist party, our minds were rushing with questions we might or might not want to ask, the nature of the answers we were going to get, and the freedom with which the organizations we were to meet would have to tell us the truth.
The first meeting went down rather strangely – the room was a bit more crowded than usual, and after inquiring as to the role of the people inside the meeting, we were told that there was a security personnel present “to vouch for our security”… Security? Against what? The violent conflict is well over, the Peace Agreement was signed, and the Maoists are a legitimate part of the government in power, so… what danger could we face in Rolpa? “Oh, none whatsoever!” we were told by everybody around us; but it took only about four or five more questions to the police man for him to inform us that he was there to take notes about the content of our meetings and to bring them back to his headquarters. We all thought to ourselves ‘oooooooohhh’ as we exchanged looks.
I wont go into further details with the particular content of the rest of our meetings (I’m saving the good stuff for my research paper), but it became apparent to me particularly that the answers we were getting did not actually portray the needs, worries or challenges that Rolpa was suffering from. The high rates of domestic violence, low rates of freedom of speech and precarious living conditions where not being highlighted – the fact was that since the Maoist insurgency succeeded in obtaining power in Kathmandu, the situation in Rolpa had improved. It was only in our last meeting that we met a human rights activist that kept our little fire of hope alive – he was brave, had gone through a lot, was not afraid, and was ready to change how things were at the present. This encountered only highlighted the difference between him and the other meetings we had been to. So…is the political influence so engrained in Rolpa that people lack the ability to look at things from another perspective? Or were they afraid of telling us the truth? Is the ‘development’ of Rolpa just a Band-Aid over a gushing wound, or is there an actual improvement in the livelihood of Rolpa.

Village Development Committees

Village development committees (VDCs) are prevalent and active across Nepal. VDCs are made up of elected village representatives who oversea all sorts of issues occurring on the village level. It seems that VDCs came out of what we now refer to as village feudal authority. Most likely, VDCs replaced village elders for example. At every district we visited almost all the organizations we spoke with referred to the work of the VDCs. These village committees have, whether voluntary or not, taken on much of the work of implementation. Programs set up such as government compensations to victims are handled and distributed by the VDCs. I was absolutely impressed by how many Nepalese worked with VDCs and were very familiar with them. This meant that a civil society was not impossible. In fact, the VDCs have the potential to play a vital role in supporting and installing democratic institutions across Nepal.

Indeed, the VDCs are vulnerable to endemic corruption. The last elections held for VDCs was 14 years ago! When speaking to organizations we learned that VDCs are important in working closely with communities. They play a critical role in working with victims whether it is reparations or concerns for justice. In the final days of our visit the position of secretary an employee of the government was dissolved. Nonetheless, VDCs are coopted by political party ideology and have yet to include various parties seeking representation. Therefore, the ultimate decisions reaching the people are bound by political ideology. This tug and pull is paralyzing Nepal’s political and social institutions.

My hope is that VDCs can emerge from entrenched corruption. Corruption in Nepal is not just about money and bribery. Ideology, identity and justice have all been compromised by party agendas. VDCs have the power to guide Nepal into a democratic order depending on the changes that hopefully can be made regarding corruption and political parties.

Everything is Politicized

Political Parties are holding the Nepali people for ransom. Almost every one we have spoken to has expressed the limitations political parties place on individuals and organizations. We are staying at a hotel owned by an American woman who has been living in Nepal for more than thirty years. When we asked her about a statue a few meters outside her hotel she immediately scorned at the questions and responded, “That stupid statue, its something political so I don’t care.” She goes on to say she turns away government officials and political party members from her hotel. She wants nothing to do with them and believes they are the ultimate cause for continued tension. Of course after meeting with tons of organizations we cannot help but agree.

Almost every entity in Nepal is associated to a political party. This may have to do with the current state of insecurity. There are so many political parties and none of them seem to represent the Nepalese people. Therefore, we find people taking the parts they like in the political ideology along with the aspects that hinder progress and change.  At a meeting in Bara with the Jan Jagaran Youth Club we learned that often times industries prefer to hire Indian workers because they feel Nepalese workers bring complicated political interests to the workplace. The most disappointing consequence of a highly politicized society is that we have found it compromises goals for empowerment and inclusion. This means that even when a woman or a Dalit are in a position of power they are forced to make political decisions based on their political party and not based on what is right for the marginalized groups they represent and come from.

Looking back on the incident with the motorcyclist. We were warned that the situation could turn political. Often times local disputes turn into a political issue. This pressures the Nepalese to associate themselves to a party. And more importantly, promote a political party that does not allow for a diversity of ideas. There seems to be a group mentality where party dissent is not common. Therefore, everyone takes the good and the bad within their parties ideology.

 

The challenge of surviving

 

village in Bara district

One of our final meetings was with an organization that works for (and with) children regarding their rights and empowerment. It was an impressive organization, and a lot of topics were covered in the limited amount of time we had available. Towards the end of the meeting a question was posed regarding the aspirations of what the future might hold for the organization and for the children of Nepal in general. I was somewhat taken aback when there didn’t seem to be a clear answer. In fact, this could have been the first time there wasn’t at least a formulaic answer readily available for such questions. The gentleman we were meeting with implied that survival was one of the most important goals for children in Nepal.

We had been exposed to life in rural Nepal away from the capital so this statement wasn’t shocking, but somewhat surprising that such a basic concept was still a priority for an organization that has been working for over 20 years in this field. It makes a lot of sense. We had experienced many examples of children still being manipulated by political parties to carry out the “dirty work” for them, and being recruited by criminal gangs was an issue that at least one member of our group was determined to find out more about. Young people are at high risk for trafficking, and often go overseas in order to earn money to send back home. We were informed that child labor is a huge problem in Nepal, and that only 2 labor inspectors are available to investigate the issue in the entire country. If survival is a priority then it shouldn’t be all that surprising to see such issues take the main stage in the arena of children’s rights.

It would seem that there are some basic needs that are not being met in the rural homes of these children. This organization is dealing with the problems that arise as a result of these needs going unfulfilled, and the gentleman we interviewed said that some work was being done at a local village level in order to mitigate some of the circumstances that arise when children leave in order to simply survive. There are many challenges that Nepal is facing on the road to building a peaceful society, and this simple challenge might be one of the most significant.

Challenges vs Criticisms

The two-week J-Term course ended with dinner on Monday night. Our friends, both Nepali and internationals, who had helped and supported us in this course, joined us for a final evening of fun in Kathmandu.  As we waited for our food to arrive, the students made a brief presentation on what we identified as “challenges” to building peace at all levels – the top,  mid and grassroots – in Nepal. I thought they did a great job! How much had we learnt in two weeks!
While all of our audience was very receptive of our views and experiences, a Nepali friend made the statement that we needed to highlight the positive in order to motivate Nepalis to building peace. His point was that there was a lot of good work being done by individuals and smaller organizations. He reminded us that there is always a light at the end of the tunnel.
His statements clearly discomforted the students. I mean, lets be real here – tell a bunch of Americans that they are not being positive and see the shock register on their faces. We are a culture of highlighting and even glorifying simple achievements. How could we have turned the “criticizers”? 🙂
We met a few organizations which ran extraordinary programs during the country’s current turbulent transitional period and the students did discuss these in their presentation.   Peacebuilding however, as an umbrella term for a variety of programs from institutionalizing democracy to delivering basic human needs, is a long-term process with changes taking place slowly and often subject to the agendas and commitments of peacebuilding actors. Challenges are not the same as “Criticisms”.  And highlighting some of the challenges, such as structural and systemic imbalances, in fact supports the good and often vain efforts of those without the power.
We have a lot of reflecting to do when we return to Monterey.  We will ALWAYS admit to the limitations of our research and will humbly accept all additional information that comes our way. We do have a lot of questions at the end of this trip and so in a way, we recognize that our research is only beginning.  But, we need to draw “our” conclusions from everything that we have seen and heard in two weeks. Yes, two weeks only but they were our experiences and as outsiders there is the chance that we saw and heard things that insiders do not or cannot perceive.  And we hope to share our analysis with a wide variety of audience who we hope will provide critical feedback.
While we all deserve a pat on the back every now and then, I strongly believe that peacebuilding actors do a HUGE disservice to their countries when they emphasize on the “feel good” feeling.  Challenging the Challenges to Peacebuiliding is key. If not, the proverbial tunnel that ultimately leads to light will only keep getting longer.

Trimtabs

One of our most impressive meetings took place on our last day in Nepal, with Search for Common Ground in Kathmandu. Not only are their projects fresh and inventive; their general outlook on how to deal with conflict situations is insightful and seems applicable to nearly any case. For example, rather than making grandiose plans for change that are always hard to implement and make people accept, SFCG focuses on the details, those tiny changes that in the long run have huge effects on society. They call them ‘5 degree shifts’: small when they start out, but as the angle extends, they become wider and wider.
I was particularly struck by their stress on ‘trimtabs’, or rudders – that tiny piece of a ship (or society) that, when turned, steers the entire giant mechanism. So what are the trimtabs in Nepal? What are those most basic of issues that could change all of society for the better?
As soon as I started thinking about this, one example came immediately to mind: a youth club in Bara district told us that, in all their programs and classes, they make an extra effort to make sure that kids of all castes and ethnicities are mixed together, sitting side by side at lunch, working on projects together. When they’re brought together like this from an early age, it helps to paint over the divisions and prejudices that plague society in so many ways. When these kids grow up, won’t their mindsets be different from their parents and grandparents, and won’t they provide a whole new base for change?
The larger issue is the discrimination present throughout Nepalese society: between ethnic groups, castes, and genders. The larger issue is the weakness, or perhaps lack of, an overarching Nepali identity that can bring all of these people together. But the small detail we can focus on to bring real change in the long run is to throw these kids together from the very start, and let them see that their ‘different’ peers aren’t so different after all.
So what are the other trimtabs we can look for in Nepal?

It’s Gonna Be a Bumpy Ride

Our research team relied heavily upon bus transportation during our travels throughout Nepal. From Birgunj to Pokhara, Lumbini to Rolpa and then terminating in Nepalganj, we laughed, loved, and generally experienced the gamut of human emotions while riding in the beloved Nike swoosh bus driven by our three-man crew.

The guy on the left has been nicknamed Georgie Porgie by Jasmine, seeing as he “looks like he would kiss all the girls and make them cry.” The man in the middle wearing the leather jacket was the quiet one, always watching the road and contemplating what life choices got him to the point of chauffeuring fourteen foreigners around seldom-visited districts. I call the third man “the Newcomer” since he joined us after Pokhara. His favorite color is green. Even though I never knew their real names, I must say if it wasn’t for their skill and professionalism you would not be reading this blog post as I would be deceased and therefore have limited access to the internet.

Ah yes, the bus rides. I shant forget the nine-hour bitterly cold ride to Nepalganj. As there was no heat, I was forced to accost my seatmate Sasha for whatever body warmth we could muster. As my stomach settled from my masala chip dinner and my toes began to lose all feeling, I couldn’t help but realize that it was still better than our ride to Rolpa. The town of Livang (Ropa’s district headquarters) sits in part of a valley that can only be accessed by one mountain road. The last 8 kilometers was the most frightening riding experience I’ve ever had. The road had continuous hairpin curves as we came down the mountain. The bus was too big so the leather jacket driver had to do 3-point maneuvers to keep us from going over the steep cliff. At one point he got almost to the edge before backing up and the bus was perched downhill on a steep grade. Our translator Prateek was sitting in the front, but he got up and faced us because he couldn’t handle the view. I recited a Buddhist mantra and nervously handled the prayer beads I bought in Lumbini while several members of our team were in the back possibly crying and/or soiling themselves. The smell of overheated brakes filled our nostrils and we waited. I could only hope our driver was skilled enough to make sure the reverse gear would catch before we plummeted. My stomach was in knots as he put the bus in gear and looked back. His nimble feet gracefully coordinated the transitions between brake, clutch and gas as we retreated from cliff and completed the turn. We were on our merry way. I looked into his large mirror and saw his smile, a grin that said “silly foreigners, Trix are for kids.”  After this bonding moment, I trusted him completely. We had another driver for traveling to Dolakha whose modus operandi, in the words of R.J., was “to barrel down the narrow mountain road as fast as he could, slam on the brakes when another car approached, squeeze past the other vehicle and then return to speeding.” The whole time I bumped up and down in my dusty seat and reminisced about our leather jacket driver who knew how to use his horn and kindly handled the pot-holed roads with care so my tailbone would not become bruised. Yes, I missed our old crew and knew they would be a large part of my Nepal memories. I can still hear Georgie Porgie drumming patterns on the chassis and yelling “kah-toe, kah-toe” to help the bus fit into tight places. The Newcomer would jump out of the moving bus to ask random stranger directions so we could get to our appointments on time. The leather jacket driver had a ponytail that was just too cool for school. Our crew really helped us have an interesting and safe learning experience in Nepal. The long bus rides allowed us to see the country and its peoples up close instead of just flying over patches of brown and green. We could use the time to talk, debrief, sleep, plan, and get to know each other better. I think taking the bus was the right decision but if I had to do it over again I would pack an extra cushion, blindfold and a hot water bottle.

Prayer Flags and Stone Steps, 14 Jan.

Trekking in the hills above Pokhara today was easily one of the best experiences scenery-wise so far. Although I was not feeling my best, I was glad that I was able to puch through and make it to the top; the view was absolutely breath-taking.

It was fascinating to walk throught the mountain villages, observe daily life, and speak with some of the villagers about life, occupation, and education. We were crowded in the street by groups of children asking our names and where we were from. Others called down “hello’s” and “namaste’s” from homes higher up on the hill. Nearly all the children asked for chocolate, pens, and money. We were asked by our guides from the 3 Sister’s Trekking Co. to not give out these things; the children are very used to trekkers from all over passing through daily and so they have come to expect that they will get money or gifts from foreigners.

The 3 Sister’s is an amazing organization working for the empowerment of women in Nepal; they acted as our guides for the trek and we also stayed in their guest house in Pokhara, learning a lot about their work. They train young women to be trekking guides, as well as ice and rock climbers. They also offer a midwifery scholarship, which is a much needed skill in Nepal. The goal is to create financially independence and stability

of women.

Once we all got our fill of the view from the top- the snowy Himalayas above and the city of Pokhara below- we began our descent, climbing down seeminly never-ending steep, jagged stone steps. One of out guides pointed out the presence of Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags hanging outside of many homes; not only are they used for prayer, but they are also hung when a family member is far away to bring sucess and well-being.

An Eye-Opening Experience, 12 Jan.

Today, we were able to see, first-hand, the conditions and hard-ships of living in a rural village in Nepal. In the district of Bara in southern Nepal near the Indian border, we visited a remote village and were able to see how the people live.

We arrived in the village in the late afternoon, our jeeps barely able to drive through the narrow dirt roads lined with huts and crowded with children, chickens, goats. There were a few bicycles and the occasional motorbike, but it was clear that not many cars passed through, especially not ones filled with foreigners. Our cars pulled up to two story, decrepid school building in a large field in the middle of one of the villages; there was a large group of men crowding around to see what our purpose was there. One of the men greated us with little orage flowers, an although the children had gone home for the day, they had anticipated our arrival by writing “welcom” in Nepal by the entrance of the school. We were given a tour of the school where we learned that hundreds of children were in attendence. The building was in poor shape, and the classrooms were dirty and filled with broken benches; we were told that in some of the larger classroom, over 200 students attenden class each day. I cannot imagine trying to learn, or teach, in that kind of environment. The pre-school was nothing more than a tree-sided structure with a dirt floor; we learned that the homeless often slept under the crude shelter, and were allowed to do so as long as they cleaned up and were gone in the morning by the time the children came.

Next, we walked through one of the near by villages, accompanied by what seemed to be a village elder. He showed us his home, a small, mud hut, and showed us what his wife was cooking for dinner- some rice and a small amount of vegetables for 5 people. It was getting dark, and fired glowed outside every hut as women prepared meager meals of mainly rice; small children warmed their bare fingers and toes on slow-burning ashes. We spoke to one woman, who looked much older that she likely was, thanks to a life of work, poverty and hardships. She worked on a plot of farm land, and was paid not in cash, but in bags of rice; If she took two bags home, she would have to repay the landlord with four- she was, essentially, trapped in a system of bonded labor. She worked 10-12 hours a day to feed 8 mouths.

It was an unbelievable experience to see this state of living, especially at night, when the cold, the lack of electricity, and the lack of basic needs was most prevelent.

“The War is Not Over”

Under the summits of Gauri and Shankar in the Dolakha district we met with three women involved in peacebuilding. More than once the statement was made, “the war is not over”. At one point this was elaborated upon, “we don’t see the arms carried, but the war is still on…”

We heard (again) that Nepal was in a period of transition. It seems that there are many Nepalis who are simply waiting. We often hear that when the constitution is signed things will be better, programs can be adopted, etc. These women told us that the in this transition period there is no law and order. People can block the road, beat people up, commit theft, but there are no repercussions. There are still kidnappings in this district. The political parties are believed to be behind them, and whether willingly or not the police are most likely complicit in most cases as well.

We are told that there is a Constitutional Assembly, but there are no leaders. It is because of the lack of leadership there is so much corruption. The gap between what is decided in Kathmandu and what is implemented in the surrounding districts is enormous. The political parties politicize almost everything in an attempt to expand their power. The picture that is painted for us seems bleak.

Dolakha district near Charikot

In spite of this there is an optimism that a signed constitution will foster positive change. In the meantime it appears that there are a significant number of Nepalis who are content to wait out this period of transition and lawlessness waiting for the day that the war will finally be over.